Sniff Test FRagrance Review: Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Orange Soleia

Sniff Test Fragrance Review: Guerlain Acqua Allegoria Orange Soleia

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Orange Soleia
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Orange Soleia

Guerlain adds to its Aqua Allegoria collection with an homage to Sicilian citrus in this uplifting and powerful fruit-themed fragrance for her and him. It features an overdose of blood orange accented with woods and a hint of sweetness through tonka bean. Here is what our fragrance experts have to say about it.

Eau de toilette, 75 ml

She says:

This is a transporting translation of the heat on Sicilian citrus groves—specifically, on blood orange. It’s the entire fruit, fresh-squeezed: the pulp and even a bit of the bitter peel, and smells so juicy your fingers will feel sticky. What keeps it from being one-dimensional is the hint of a powdery base drydown —the so-called guerlinade, the Parisian perfumer’s signature accord present in all its historic fragrances like a secret olfactive fingerprint. Like the ritual of aperitivo hour with an Aperol spritz in hand, it’s a refreshing escape on a hot day, with the sun beating down and the hiss of cicadas in the background. If it lasted longer, it would be less like the perfect summer afternoon it evokes. 3 out of 4

dave lackie and nathalie atkinson sniff test fragrance review
dave lackie and nathalie atkinson sniff test fragrance review

He says:

Guerlain in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser is one of the most talented perfumers working today. He has an innate respect for the soul of ingredients – the personality and character of rose blooms, iris root and citrus groves. He says that ingredients created in laboratories can never match the personality of the flowers and plants that grow in fields. So I always look forward to each of his creations.

Aqua Allegoria fragrances are typically promoting during the spring and summer months and most often play up one star ingredient. Wasser has more room to express his creativity with these scents and the scents literally jump out of the bottle at first spritz. Orange soleia, as you can imagine from the title, is a celebration of Sicilian blood orange accented with wood notes and a little tonka bean.

Here’s the dilemma with this particular scent: the drydown about 15 minutes after applying is really lovely. The soft citrus blends nicely with the woody notes making it an ideal fragrance for day. Unfortunately, the top notes are so strong that it may put some off before the eau de toilette has time to evolve completely on the skin. It’s an example of the wisdom of not judging a scent a first whiff. 2 out of 4

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Orange Soleia
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Orange Soleia

Sniff Test Scent Reviews are the personal and professional opinions of Nathalie Atkinson and Cityline beauty & fragrance expert Dave Lackie.

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  • @tserings
    November 16, 2020 at 12:27 am

    Love how honest and informative your reviews are!!

  • Gabrielle
    November 15, 2020 at 8:26 pm

    I always love your reviews. I’m a Guerlain girl from way back (Mitsouko forever) and it’s lovely to read your soulful, thoughtful takes on this fragrance.

  • Elizabeth Vlug
    November 15, 2020 at 10:58 am

    I have learned so much about scents from your newsletter. Truly one of my favourite reads. Thank you both

    November 15, 2020 at 9:04 am

    I will definitely check out this Guerlain fragrance keeping in mind your reviews. I have to say my favourite is Pera granita. The bottle is gorgeous! @linlett60

  • Anna Roszak Robinson
    November 15, 2020 at 8:52 am

    Thank you for my free subscription to your newsletters. I love it 💗

    • Michelle
      November 15, 2020 at 9:31 am

      Anna, you’re the best! Always so sweet!!

      Have a great day! ♥️

      • Anna Roszak-Robinson
        November 19, 2020 at 12:37 pm

        Thank you Michelle xo

  • Catherine Young
    November 15, 2020 at 8:40 am

    Is there such a scent as blood orange blossom? Is this scent included in this Guerlain fragrance, too – or just the essence of blood orange?
    Loved this review. Both are very evocative but left me wondering about the previous questions.

  • Louisa Santoro
    November 15, 2020 at 7:52 am

    I love the Guerlain Aqua scents. They’re all lovely ❤️

  • Catherine Strong
    November 15, 2020 at 7:45 am

    Love the Guerlain bottle looks gorgeous scent too